On Wednesday, April
1985 Morton Neumann’s
obituary in the Chicago Tribune newspaper read, “City’s
Patron of Art Dies”. Only one line mentioned he was a ‘local
cosmetics manufacturer’.
Neumann amassed one of
the finest modern art collections in the world, and helped
finance the expansion of Chicago’s Art Institute – all made possible
because of the success of Valmor Products, its numerous subsidiaries – and
the subconscious wishes of millions of African-Americans.
Before he started collecting Picassos and
Giacomettis, Neumann tried his own hand at art. According
to the book Stronger than Dirt, Neumann designed all of the labels for his Sweet Georgia Brown, Madam
Jones and Lucky Brown Cosmetics lines. He
used a process called Letterpressing – best described
as a press made specifically for relief printing. You
can tell it’s a relief print because the thick lettering’s
raised a fraction of an inch above the label.
There’s no written explanation why
Neumann decided to do all the artwork for Valmor Products himself – probably
because it was too expensive during the 1920’s and ‘30’s
to contract another company or artist to do something he could
do himself.
It
goes without saying Neumann’s designs
have lived long after the demise of Valmor – and his
own life. But for many, the empire he created will continue to live
on in numerous discussions about art, the psychological complexity
of advertising, and how capitalism benefited from racism. |